Hammock Guide

The hammock pictured on the home page of this site was made with these instructions, and uses the sewn on bugnet design shown in the bug net DIY guides.

Double layer hammocks have three (at least) advantages over single layer hammocks - 1) they hold more weight, 2) they hold a pad in place between the layers, 3) and they have a great track record of stopping mosquitoes from getting you from underneath. This design is optimized so you can slip a closed-cell foam pad (or inflatable) between the layers for an inexpensive bottom insulation option. Having a pad between the layers helps keeps it in place, where a pad simply placed on top of your hammock is rather tricky - it tends not to like to stay where you want it and, while fun for others to watch, can be rather frustrating for you. If you will be using an underquilt anyway, a single layer hammock may be a better option.

Note: For a single layer hammock, just cut the fabric to size, hem the edges, sew your end channel, gather the end, and add your suspension. Easy peasy!

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17 Comments

    • Yes, it would definitely fit someone 6’4″, but were I that tall, I would increase it to 11 feet for the raw fabric length. Those 6″ would be well worth the extra ounce.

  1. What is the typical weight of this hammock given the materials needed to make the double layer version? Also, I’m 5’8″ tall. Would I be able to shorten the overall length at all to save weight yet still maintain comfort?

    • Hey Chad – the weight is mostly dependent on the fabric used. Going with an average fabric width of 62″, each layer comes out to 6 square yards. So, if you’re using 1.9oz Ripstop, each layer would weigh 11.4oz (6 x 1.9). Two layers comes to 22.8oz. The extra stuff doesn’t weigh much, maybe 3oz, giving you roughly 25-26oz with 1.9oz fabric.

      Equation:
      Double-Layer Hammock Weight = 12 x Fabric Weight per Square Yard + 3
      Single-Layer Hammock Weight = 6 x Fabric Weight per Square Yard + 3

      Hope that helps.

  2. I am new to a hammock and think that I would like to a mosquito net, how should I do that and where should it be attached? Also how do you keep this thing from bucking you off? Thank you for your time? Do you have any one in
    SW Arizona…I am alone out here. Dorothy

    • Hi Dorothy – Pawel linked a really great bug net solution by Fronkey from HammockForums.net. I’ve also got three bug net solutions for hammocks in the DIY Guides under Bug Netting.

      We’re in Maine, so nowhere near Arizona – but join up at HammockForums.net. There are lots of folk down your way who could help with questions.

      As for being bucked off, my first guess is that maybe the hammock is being strung to tight? There should be quite a bit of sag to the hammock relative to the suspension lines. It can help to have a structural ridgeline to get the right amount of hammock sag each time.

  3. I’ve made a few hammocks before, but never for a big person. A coworker asked me to make him one. He’s about 6’4″ and 295 lbs. What would you suggest?
    Thanks.

  4. I’m pretty confused on step 4, is there any video or something that would help me better understand how to cinch the ends?

  5. Could anyone go into further detail about step 4 for the hammock plans. I’m not exactly sure what a roll hem is and how to run the draw cord through to tie it off. Thanks!

  6. Can you use less fabric by sewing the second layer by size of pad rather than doubling the entire thing? Ie sew a channel to stick pad in. I’m 5-7 and with gear, under 170 lbs.

    Any problems sewing the bug net onto the hammock itself with a zipper or bungeed gather on one side to get in?

    I’d like to make it an UL hammock system. :) thanks!

  7. Scott, I understand the rolled hems on the short ends, but what kind of hems are suggested for the long sides? The diagram just says hem. Thanks.

    • Hey Frederick. Just a rolled hem on the long end too, but it can be a narrow hem (3/8″-1/2″ or so). The only purpose there is for a finished look and to keep the edges from fraying.

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